Pit Stop on the Mexican Mainland, April 10th 2004.


This morning we paddled north past a long boring sandy beach for 20km or so. At sandy Putna San Miguel we could have turned right, made a short crossing to the mainland and followed the shore. However we just paddled diagonally across the Cannel el Inferno straight to the town of Punta Chueca.

Friendly fishermen directed us to the store but we picked up an annoying cloud of "sand urchins" on the way. These young boys started out cute but quickly became wilder and crazier and more out of control. They sat on my kayak and broke the cheap plastic virgin off my bow. They tried to steal our paddles, tried to pull things out of the hatches of our kayaks, "helped" us transfer water to our water bags and then demanded money, shouted at us in Spanish and when we did not understand them one kid threatened to backhand Dave. (I commented "just like daddy does to him"). We bought six gallons of water and then escaped back to the water. There Roger discovered that his disposable camera was missing. The little monsters stole it just for fun, it will do them no good, and Roger is out all the pictures he had taken on the mostly full roll. Dave took back all the nasty things he said about bo-bo flies, these sand urchins are worse.

We paddled around the spit to the other side of town to try to look up Ernesto Morino and get permission to camp on Tuburon Island. A Mexican tourist who doesn't know the town any better than we do was able to ask directions for me from some locals and translate them to English. His kids are much better behaved and Dave did not have to use his emergency plan of towing my boat offshore to save it from them while I was gone. If the sand urchins had followed us, this is what he would have done.

I went for a walk through town and found Ernesto's house where his wife hand signed me to wait while she went and brought back her husband to talk to me. He turns out to be an interesting man with passable English. He charged us $4 a day per person to camp on Tiburon and Esteban. I paid him for the previous two days as well as the next few.

To make sure we escaped the sand urchins, we paddled five kilometers into the wind and tide across Cannel el Infierno to get to the windy, exposed, bug ridden tip of Punta San Miguel on Tiburon and spend the night there. On the way through town I had bought a few cold drinks and a package of fresh tortillas, so we made tacos for dinner that night. We used salami for the meat, rice, instant refried beans, cabbage leaves, shredded carrot, tomato puree and red sauce.


All text and images Copyright © 2004 by Mike Higgins / contact