Maquinna Park to Shelter Inlet, July 14th 2009.


I got up early again to go for another dip in the Ramsey Hot Springs before it became crowded. The air was clear and I was conflicted: I wanted to hurry to the spring, but I wanted to slow down and enjoy the coastline. I took the time to paddle up a slot that separates Mate Island from the main Vancouver Island. This slot is not always navigable, and on this morning the tide was too low to get through. If it had been deeper it would have been a shortcut into Hot Springs Cove. I went outside instead and still made it in time to avoid the crowds.

My soak was marred by worrying about my kayak. I had forgotten to tie it down and a high tide could take it away. The water never even came close, but I still worried until I made it back. I paddled north up the cove exploring the shore. I stopped to look at the dock where everyone else lands to hike down to the hot spring. Right about here I saw the rest of my group coming up the cove. We crossed over together to stop at a village that was rumored to have a store. I stayed in my kayak; those who got out of theirs went looking were disappointed. There is a store but all it sells is junk food. Being in a First Nations village, they are not even allowed to sell beer.

We paddled back down Hot Springs Cove and across Shelter Inlet to the area we camped in a few days ago. Rather than camp on the same crowded beach, this time we went a little north. Ken Kelton and I found a sheltered north facing beach and suggested staying there. It turns out this is a beach that Don Fleming has camped on before. He was stuck there for days in bad weather, but was willing to give it another chance. Some sport fishermen gave us a bag full of fish fillets so we had a huge dinner that evening.


All text and images Copyright © 2009 by Mike Higgins / contact