Kortum Trail, April 11th to 13th 1995


Watching the waves over the internet, I predicted that early this week would be a good time to do one of the Point Reyes kayak trips. Between storms, the waves calmed down to 6 feet on Tuesday morning. Unfortunately, my Dad was unable to give me a ride until Wednesday, so we scheduled it for that morning. On Tuesday evening, I thought I would go out at Goat Rock and get some exercise in preparation for the 6 mile trip Wednesday morning. The waves were still reasonable, but getting larger, and it was an overcast day, so I would not be able to see the sunset. (The pictures referenced by this page were taken on a different walk on a sunny afternoon). Also, if I went out Tuesday evening, the wetsuit would be cold, wet, and slimy when getting into it Wednesday morning for the Point Reyes trip. For all these reasons, I decided not to get in the water. But I still needed some exercise, so I took a brisk walk down the Kortum Trail This trail runs along the bluff top from Goat Rock Beach, through Shell Beach, and down to Wrights Beach. In the first mile of this trail, you pass by several gorgeous rock outcrops. One of them is a broken pile of rock that has one huge rock (10 meters) split in half, with a packed earth trail running through the bottom of the crack. Rock climbers like to come out and climb up and down this one. The next rock looks like a volcanic plug sticking straight out of the flat grassy land near top of the cliff. It has vertical walls on the west side, and a jumbled talus on the east side that makes for easy climbing. From the trail, you can't see the easy access, and it looks like an unreachable tower of rock. One time that Marty and I walked down this trail, there was a very low cloud ceiling that allowed us to see fine, but the top of this volcanic plug was lost in the mist overhead. I imagined that it did not stop in just 20 meters, but kept going on up forever, or at least for 30,000 kilometers (twice geostationary orbit). The way my imagination ran, I pretended that this was the foot of an "orbital tower", sometimes called a "sky hook": a design for a device to run cables into high-earth orbit and run elevators into space. It's not practical with current materials, but may be one day. In clear weather ever since, I have thought of this rock as the broken off 'stub' of my orbital tower.

There was a group of people on top of the 'stub', so I walked around it once and on to a place to stand on the cliffs above the water for a few minutes. Even with 6 or 7 foot swells, it looked like there were some accessible places along the shore. I think I paddled past here once a long time ago, but it looks like a place I could explore again with the kayak one day when I don't feel like a long drive to a new place. Before I headed back, I saw the previous party descend, so I climbed up to the top of the 'stub'. Every time I have walked past here with Marty, doing things like climbing to the top of a 20 meter volcanic plug is totally out of the question. If I stop for things like that, Marty will leave from boredom waiting for me, or will leave to avoid having to watch me get 'too far' off the ground. Marty does not like heights, and claims to have seen my life flash before her eyes when I simply leaned down a flight of stairs. Without having to worry about the effect on Marty, I ran right up to the top of the 'stub'. There is a trail starting on the west side. It goes up a short talus to the vertical face, then curves around the south side and up the edge of the big talus in the back. You have to climb up a few steep rocky places, but eventually the beaten path curves around until you are facing west, and standing on top of the vertical face directly above where you started.

The next morning, Wednesday, the waves were too rough to do the Point Reyes trip, and getting worse. I probably could have survived it, but the northern most point of Point Reyes looks like a beautiful stretch with 120 meter cliffs dropping into water full of large rocks to paddle between. I decided to save it for a calmer day and aborted the trip. In retrospect, I could have gone out Tuesday evening, since I didn't need the wetsuit on Wednesday. On Thursday the waves were even higher, in preparation for a mild storm on Friday. I worked inside all day Thursday, and went out to get some exercise and see the sunset in the evening. I went to Goat Rock Beach again, and ran down the Kortum Trail to try to watch the sunset from the top of the 'stub'. The sun went behind a row of clouds as I walked down the trail, and cast some beautiful red-orange beams under the clouds onto the ocean. Even these beams disappeared by the time I made it to the top, and I ended up missing the sun completely from the top of the rock. But as I sat up there and caught my breath, the view was still worth the trip. The ocean was very rough, with a strong wind blowing up whitecaps. Just around the next point to the north, I could see my old friend the Arched Rock at Goat Rock Beach. Perspective made the difference between the edge of the bluff and the water seem like a very short drop. The flat grasslands between the rock I was on and the edge of the bluff looked like a well manicured lawn from this height.


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All text and images Copyright © 1995 by Mike Higgins / contact